‘De meiden komen!’ echode het na mijn vertrek in Boekarest dagelijks vrolijk door mijn hoofd. Net als Praag, Krakau, Oekraïne en Roemenië, was de komst van mijn allerbeste jeugdvriendinnetjes een hoogtepunt in het eerste deel van mijn reis. 27 juni om 10 na 1 ’s nachts zou hun vliegtuig landen in Istanbul.

Maar eerst moest ik nog een sprint trekken door ‘transitland’ Bulgarije. Snel langs de kust fietsen om nog sneller in Istanbul te zijn. Dat snel had ik verkeerd ingeschat. Niet alle kustlijnen zijn even vlak als de Belgische.
Ik waan me in Frankrijk en zie wijngaarden, zonnebloem- en lavendelvelden à volonté. Deux chevaux’s en Jeanne d’Arc’s zijn vervangen door Lada’s en communistische standbeelden. Ik wen terug aan bewegwijzering in Cyrillisch schrift.
Na vier dagen fulltime trappen met veel dode dieren langs de weg en springlevende vliegen rond mijn tent bereikte ik de grens met Turkije.

I entered the eighth country on my journey #Bulgaria

Completely another atmosphere #Bulgaria

So many dead animals on the road #Bulgaria

I like this kind of statues #Bulgaria

#Bulgaria

I needed benzin for my cooking stove. Unfortunately, this kind man told me that he was sold out. Instead of helping me with the benzin, he offered me cookies and I could taste from his home made honey #Bulgaria

There are much more snakes in Europe then I expected. I nearly cycled on that one. Luckily I didn’t, he was still alive. The filter on his eyes is camouflage. He pretends being dead #Bulgaria

The biggest snake I saw so far #Bulgaria

In dutch we say: Living as God in France… euh Bulgaria. Well I did. Lavender and sunflower fields and vineyards all around #Bulgaria

I was warned about all the gypsies. People told me I couldn’t camp around, it was way too dangerous. They told me the police would have an option. I was already dreaming of sleeping in jail for a night, exciting… But the police office was closed. I asked on the terrace of the benzin station of Karapelit if somebody had a sollution for me. The men started calling around and offered me a beer and chips. Suddenly Ivan (left on the picture), the mayor, appeared, he had a solution. I could sleep for free in the hotel of his father in his village. Wow, grateful, thank you so much Ivan! #Bulgaria

The next morning Ivan, the mayor, invited me in his office. Nice 🙂 #Bulgaria

In the town hall #Bulgaria

In front of the town hall #Karapelit #Bulgaria

I never saw so many obituaries attached on trees as in Bulgaria

#Bulgaria

Long live the fruit stalls along the road #Bulgaria

On the wall of the post office #Bulgaria

Nice cliffs along the coastline #Bulgaria

A bus stop with publicity of car rental. My advice? Take the bike #Bulgaria

#Varna #Bulgaria

Corn with all kinds of toppings next to the olympic swimming pool of Varna #Bulgaria

#Bulgaria

Nice sandy beaches #Bulgaria

Lots of tourists #Bulgaria

Suddenly I heard ‘lieve kleine piranha’. Luc De Vos is still alive on this sunny terrace in Bulgaria

Way too many dead animals on the road. This one, was the most exceptional #badger #Bulgaria

Fluffy flowers, I like #Bulgaria

#Bulgaria

I didn’t find the camp site in Sarafovo, so I was looking for a place to camp. Not so easy in a coast town. I cycled too much that day and was too tired that I asked to Todor, the man on the picture, if I could camp in front of their house. He called his sweet daughter Gabi (Gabriela, 12) who speaks English, to come over and talk with me. At the end of the evening I could stay there for dinner (Gabi her mum Kalinka is the best cook of Bulgaria, for sure) and could sleep on the outdoor covered terrace. The next morning Gabi made me a yummy breakfast and a very nice drawing, she is so creative. I felt sorry to leave, but Istanbul and the girls (#bff) were waiting for me. You can’t imagine how lucky I felt to meet such a warm and lovely family, amazing. Lots of love for all of you xx #Bulgaria

Nearly at the border with Turkey #Bulgaria

Nice to cycle through these green surroundings #Bulgaria

Gelukzaligheid troef! Onmiddellijk voelde je de grootsheid van het land, van haar bergen en haar tegenwind. Alsook de uitgesproken gastvrijheid van de Ottomanen, zoals sommigen zichzelf graag voorstellen.
Overal krijg je çay (thee) aangeboden. Zelfs in het tankstation, mijn herlaadplaats voor elektriciteit en energie. Wil je een aankoop fruit of groenten betalen, wordt dat vaak geweigerd en vervolgd door ‘hoş geldiniz’ (welkom). Je vindt in elk dorp, stad of on the road waterfonteintjes. De ideale stop om water te tanken, je kleding of jezelf te wassen.
De Turkse vlag is alomtegenwoordig, het werk van Atatürk, de oprichter van de seculiere republiek Turkije.
Je ziet mannen in kafé’s thee drinken of tavla (backgammon) spelen. Je hoort tot vijfmaal daags vanuit de minaret de oproep tot gebed en ‘güle güle’ (tot ziens) uit de mond van menig voorbijganger. Er wordt geclaxonneerd en gezwaaid wanneer je fietsend passeert.
Katten verschijnen in het straatbeeld en grote honden ook.
Mijn eerste indruk? Onvergetelijk en verlangend naar meer Türkiye!

Finally … I reached Turkey, it felt so good! I was looking forward to cycle in this country for many years #Turkey

Such a nice surprise to see that Turkey is covered with water fountains in almost all parts of the country #Turkey

Wow, I was so happy to arrive in Turkey. The country was so different and I had for the first time since months a little bit of tail wind. I stopped at a water fountain (in every village you have at least one, I like) and refreshed a bit. This man and his daughter stopped to talk. It was my first encounter with turkish people and it felt great. The man spoke fluent german and said to me that the western part of Turkey is way more modern, so I didn’t have to cover myself with long sleeves and trousers. ‘Check my daughter’ he said, ‘that’s normal here.’ ‘Welcome in Turkey’ #Turkey

A lot of military security zones on my way to Istanbul. And few horse and carriages #Turkey

Sunflower fields… Where have I seen these ones too? It looks flat, but it was very hilly #Turkey

In the first city I stopped I bought fruit and bread (well, buying, they actually offered me). The man on the left spoke German. and came over to offer his help… In the cheese shop, with buying a phone card and even with finding a free night stay. That last offer I skipped, I was looking forward to find the perfect camp spot #Turkey

#Turkey

I am fond of watermelon and was so glad I saw these watermelon trucks on the road. I wanted to buy a piece. Unfortunately that couldn’t, you had to buy the whole melon. I started talking with the vendor via Google Translate and suddenly, out of the blue, he checked which watermelon he could open for me and let me taste it. I also could taste the other melon, as much as I wanted. I wanted to pay, but that was out of question. So sweet! One of so many tastes of turkish generosity #Turkey

May I present you, the nicest guys from the best bike repair shop in Istanbul/Büyükçekmece (Sena Bisiklet). Really, you have to go there when you’re around. They were just fabulous. Erkan (the man on the left side) is faster than his shadow when it concerns bike repairing. They spolied me so much. Not only with a nice hour in their shop, a free bike maintenance but also with Turkish Delight. Thank you so much guys #Turkey

Eight lanes in one direction. And that direction is Istanbul. Now with little traffic. Half an hour later I was stuck in traffic jam. I liked it #Turkey

You can’t believe this… really… I was in the middle of a traffic jam around Istanbul (imagine an eight lane street, one way, cars all around) and Burak (the guy sitting next to me) opened the window of his car and asked me: ‘Do you have a place to sleep?’. He continued by saying he is a warmshowers host and he saw my bags so he thought I could use a bed and shower. We had a small chat along the way, he offered me his gps (mine didn’t find the right address) and was was welcome at his place where he lives with his sister and niece. It was just a wonderfull evening with great talks, good beer, nice food and a lovely view on their roof top terrace. Thank you so much Burak! An unforgettable evening, for sure #Turkey

Entering Istanbul and getting a first impression of the Marmara Sea #Turkey

Istanbul naderde, zo ook de meiden.
Ik ging ze oppikken op de vlieghaven. Vertraging … ocharme, de schatten, reeds 17 uur onderweg en eens boven Istanbul mochten ze niet landen. In plaats daarvan draaiden ze nog een paar uur rondjes boven mijn hoofd. Om 3 uur ‘s nachts verlaatten we, na blij-weerzien-knuffels en kussen en masse, het vliegveld richting gezellig appartement gelegen in de bruisende Cihangirwijk.

Vijf dagen kon ik ten volle genieten van ‘mijn’ meiden. Gezien de politieke situatie in Turkije hadden hun wederhelften gevraagd voorzichtig te zijn en niet teveel publieke plaatsen op te zoeken of metro’s te nemen.
Er werd gestapt, gelachen, gedronken en volop bijgekletst. Er werd ook gevaren. De boot leek ons een veilige optie. Vanop de Bosporus kregen we een mooi beeld van alle pracht en praal die Istanbul te bieden heeft. Gigantische moskeeën en nog grotere paleizen waar rijke studenten of kersverse gehuwde koppels hun gading vinden om te feesten.
Gevaren ook naar het kleine Heybeliada, dat samen met 8 andere Prinseneilanden gelegen is voor de kust van Istanbul, in de Zee van Marmara.

Er werd ook gefeest want er was er eentje jarig. Ik mocht kaarsjes uitblazen op 28 juni, om middernacht. Kaarsjes op een taart geschonken door de sympathieke ober van Kybele Café, omdat de meiden ingefluisterd hadden dat ik verjaarde.
Kaarsjes uitblazen op de avond van de aanslag in de vlieghaven van Istanbul. Een aanslag met alweer onnodige slachtoffers. Had ik de kaarsjes niet beter laten branden?

First morning together with the girls… Let’s spoil us with a yummy turkish breakfast #Turkey

And walk the streets of Istanbul #Turkey

In all corners of the big city people are taking care of streetcats. A lovely thing to see #Turkey

Now and then: old wooden houses #Turkey

Nice logo from the municipality of Beyoglu #Turkey

There was always time for some refreshment. Lovely freshly made lemon juice #Turkey

#Istanbul #Turkey

Streetlife with nice old car #Istanbul #Turkey

Streetdogs #Istanbul #Turkey

‘Hayırda Yarışınız’ is a sentence from the Quran and means: Compete each other in doing good. Istanbul by night is great #Istanbul #Turkey

A five star water fountain #Istanbul #Turkey

One of the bazaars #Istanbul #Turkey

In front of the blue mosque #Istanbul #Turkey

Time for a safe boat trip on Bosporus river. You see a lot of Saudi Arabian tourists in Istanbul. They like to do what movie stars in soap series do, like having a boat trip on the Bosporus #Istanbul #Turkey

I love you girls, from Ghent to Taiwan and back and again and further #bff #Istanbul #Turkey

#Bosporus #Istanbul #Turkey

Turkish flag all around #Bosporus #Istanbul #Turkey

Let’s find some turkish food and wine to finish a great day and start celebrating my birthday #Istanbul #Turkey

#Istanbul #Turkey

‘Hiçbir yetim himayesiz kalmasın’ is also a phrase from the Quran, a kind of wish, meaning: any orphan won’t be alone #Istanbul #Turkey

In Kybele Cafe we spend the evening to celebrate my birthday. It’s so sad to see that all the tourists stay away from Turkey. They are really suffering from it #Istanbul #Turkey

It was my birthday when I was in Istanbul. My best friends came over to celebrate. They told the realy kind waiter Hasan from Kybele Cafe that at midnight I became a year older. Without knowing anything he arrived at 12 p.m. with a big plate with Turkish pastry and candles to blow. Too sweet! #Turkey

Boarding time to one of the Prince Islands: Heybeliada in the Marmara Sea, not far from the coastline with Istanbul. We walked some hours on this island and had an aperitif… with again, some birthday cake offered by the waiter #Istanbul #Turkey

Finally I had some models for my pictures #Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

#Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

#Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

Not everyone likes to cycle on the road #Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

Every ribbon in the tree is a wish #Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

#Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

#Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

Soccer players doing ballet #Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

#Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Turkey

A romantic trip back to Istanbul #Heybeliada #PrinceIsland #Istanbul #Turkey

Er werd afscheid genomen en gehoopt dat de meiden veilig zouden landen op Belgische bodem.
Er werd gemist. Na vijf dagen intens met zijn vier, was ik plots terug alleen.
Hoog tijd dus om op de fiets te springen, Europa te verlaten en de leegte te vullen met nieuwe ontmoetingen, landschappen, kampplekjes en het heerlijk onbekende in een ander continent. Asia, here I come!

Without the girls by my side, I went for some sightseeing #BlueMosque #Istanbul #Turkey

Because of the attack in Atatürk airport there was more blue in the street #HagiaSophia #Istanbul #Turkey

#HagiaSophia #Istanbul #Turkey

#HagiaSophia #Istanbul #Turkey

After a lot of detours to find my way to go to Istanbul in Asia, I reached this little boat. Bye bye Europe, Asia, I’m on my way! #Istanbul #Turkey

You see a lot of street dogs in Turkey, they’re mostly marked with a chip. I was cycling through an area with remarkable more dogs. Suddenly I understood, they had a good life here. I met these three people from Huysuz İhtiyar who are volunteering by feeding the street dogs three times a week. Isn’t that great? When they left with their van, the dogs were running behind the van for at least a kilometer. Lovely and sad to see #Turkey

The dogs were really enthousiastic to be invited in this ***** restaurant #Turkey

Graveyard #Turkey

Nice campspot near the black sea #Turkey

Look at my lovely camping chair #Turkey

#BlackSea #Turkey

Fast forward to Kerpe/Kandıra, to go volunteering on an organic farm #Turkey

Almost there… Narköy farm. Curious how it will be #Turkey

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Noot: In Turkije ontmoet ik de meest gastvrije mensen. Teveel om van iedereen een foto te nemen. Soms is het ook niet gepast, is er geen tijd voor of zou het de gemoedelijke sfeer verstoren. Ik probeer toch een aantal mensen een plaatsje te bezorgen op mijn friends-of-the-road-pagina. Deze vind je hier.